Is it possible to produce extra virgin olive oil in Germany, and what is the quality of these oils from the north?
Olive oil will soon be available in Germany, according to a farmer. Climate change is now making it possible to grow olive trees north of the Alps. Gary Weiand examines the gnarled olive trees growing at the bottom of a valley. The plants are healthy, says the doctor from Freiburg. They come from southern Spain; at the beginning of the decade, Weiand had them trucked to southern Baden.
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The 78 trees, some up to 200 years old, blend harmoniously into the terraced landscape of the Kaiserstuhl Valley, northwest of Freiburg. Vineyards, a cypress, and olive groves form the backdrop of a picturesque oasis with southern charm. "They survived remarkably well," says owner Weiand, observing the Andalusian trees. "I was surprised, too." It wasn't an easy road.
German extra virgin olive oil: What are the main regions where it is already produced?
Climate change is making olive cultivation possible north of the Alps. Experiments are underway in places including the Cologne region and Austria. In Austria, the startup Agro Rebels has long aspired to plant olive groves. But to achieve this, they need to find the right varieties: "In Austria, the olive tree is reaching its limits in terms of climatic conditions," founding member Markus Fink told the Austrian newspaper Der Standard.
However, in traditional olive-producing countries of the Mediterranean basin, drought and heat are taking their toll, as recently revealed by Stiftung Warentest. The study concluded that the average quality of olive oil had significantly decreased compared to previous studies. The defects are primarily attributed to the weather.
Which olive varieties are used to withstand winter and produce German extra virgin olive oil?
Weiand, originally from southern Baden, dedicated a great deal of time to finding varieties adapted to his region. "The Arbequina and Picual varieties can withstand frosts as low as -12°C. Last winter, we had temperatures as low as -9.5°C several times," says the 59-year-old. In critical situations, this man, clearly committed to organic farming, regularly visits his property near Ihringen, in the Breisgau-Hochschwarzwald district, to check that everything is alright.
Besides the variety, location and soil are also important for the olive tree. The soil here is favorable, Weiand explains. Furthermore, the olive grove is sheltered from the wind and faces south. "Olive trees need about 2500 hours of sunshine a year; in Ihringen, it's about 2600," he says. The trees tolerate water surprisingly well, as the olive grower discovered. "I didn't expect it either." His system is unique in this way north of the Alps, explains the doctor, who says he became a self-taught farmer.
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EVOO from Germany for the first time in 2024
The next stage of the project is approaching. If all goes according to plan, olive oil will be extracted from Germany's harvest for the first time this year. Exactly where this will happen is still unknown. Perhaps in Ticino, as there is no suitable olive mill nearby.
Initially, little profit will likely be made from the liquid gold of the Kaiserstuhl . With a total estimated production of around 1000 kilos of olives, the oil yield should be around 15%, according to Weiand's estimates. At least at the beginning of the experiment, commercial intentions were obviously not a deciding factor: "I've always been fascinated by the beauty of the olive tree," Weiand recalls.
Stiftung Warentest quality analysis of olive oil
The German consumer organization Stiftung Warentest analyzed 25 brands of extra virgin olive oil, revealing a worrying picture where only four products achieved a "good" rating, while several popular brands suffered poor ratings due to defects in taste and aroma resulting from improper production or storage.
In addition to the occasional presence of mineral oil components, the 2026 study highlighted the excellence of options such as Cillo Mono Natives Olivenöl extra Coratina, Alnatura Bio-Olivenöl nativ extra and Cantinelle (from Aldi), concluding that the "extra virgin" label requires an informed choice from the consumer to guarantee its real health benefits.
