Why there could soon be olive oil from Germany
In the future, olive oil will also be available in Germany, as a farmer announces. Climate change now makes it possible to grow olives north of the Alps. Gary Weiand examines the gnarled olive trees growing in a valley floor. The plants are healthy, says the doctor from Freiburg. They come from southern Spain; at the beginning of the decade, Weiand had them trucked to southern Baden.
The 78 trees, some up to 200 years old, blend harmoniously into the terraced landscape of the Kaiserstuhl valley northwest of Freiburg. Vineyards, a cypress tree, and olive trees form the backdrop for a picturesque oasis with southern charm. “They survived very well,” says owner Weiand, looking at the Andalusian trees. “It was surprising for me too. It wasn’t an easy road.”
Olive oil: climate change makes cultivation possible in Germany
Climate change is making olive cultivation possible north of the Alps. Experiments are being conducted, among other places, in the Cologne region and in Austria. In the neighboring country, the start-up Agro Rebels has long had ambitions to plant olive groves. But to achieve this, the right varieties must be found: “In Austria, the olive tree is reaching its limits in terms of climate,” founding member Markus Fink told the Austrian newspaper Der Standard.
However, in the classic growing countries of the Mediterranean basin, drought and heat are taking their toll, as Stiftung Warentest recently revealed. The conclusion was that the average quality of olive oil had declined significantly compared to previous studies. The defects are primarily caused by the climate.
Cultivation in Germany: Suitable Varieties and Craftsmanship
Weiand, originally from southern Baden, spent a lot of time finding varieties suited to his region. “The Arbequina and Picual varieties can withstand frost down to minus twelve degrees. “Last winter, we had temperatures as low as minus nine and a half degrees here several times,” says the 59-year-old. In critical situations, this man, clearly committed to organic farming, regularly visits his property near Ihringen, in the Breisgau-Hochschwarzwald district, to check that everything is going well.
In addition to the variety, the location and soil are also important for olives. The site’s soil is favorable, explains Weiand. In addition, the olive grove is protected from the wind and faces south. “Olives need around 2,500 hours of sunshine a year; in Ihringen it’s around 2,600 hours,” he says. The trees tolerate water surprisingly well, as the olive grower discovered. “I didn’t expect that either.” His system is unique in this form north of the Alps, explains the doctor, who says he has become a self-taught farmer.
Olive oil for the first time in 2024
The next stage of the project is now approaching. If all goes according to plan, olive oil will be extracted from the harvest for the first time this year. It is not yet known exactly where this will happen. Perhaps in Ticino, as there is no suitable oil mill nearby.
Initially, there will probably not be much profit to be made from the liquid gold of the Kaiserstuhl. With an estimated total yield of around 1,000 kilos of olives, the oil yield should be around 15%, as Weiand estimates. At least at the beginning of the experiment, commercial intentions were obviously not a decisive factor: “I have always been fascinated by the beauty of the olive tree,” Weiand recalls.