High-quality olive oil in Croatia

Produce High-Quality Olive Oil

After a cancer scare, retired soccer star Nikica Cukrov and her son-in-law joined forces to plant trees and produce extra virgin olive oil. In the heart of Dalmatia, Croatia’s most famous olive-growing region, lies Split, home to one of Croatia’s most prestigious and successful football clubs, Hajduk.

The people of Dalmatia say that only Hajduk and olives live forever, and for one of the club’s former players, Nikica Cukrov, this has proven to be true in more ways than one. Together with Vjeran Paić, his son-in-law and a well-known lawyer, the 65-year-old received a Silver Award for Brunela, a medium blend, at the NYIOOC 2023 World Olive Oil Competition. “A great achievement,” said Cukrov, who played for Hajduk and three other Croatian teams in the 1970s and 1980s while part of Yugoslavia and the Yugoslav national team.

After retiring from football in 1990 in the nearby town of Šibenik, Cukrov continued to live his life to the fullest, enjoying the local cuisine, drinks, and tobacco. However, this lifestyle began to negatively impact his health, and he was eventually diagnosed with throat cancer. After a successful surgical procedure, Cukrov changed his lifestyle and focused on his family’s agricultural roots. “I come from the island of Prvić, where people have always practiced agriculture and fishing,” said Cukrov.

Olive Tree Cultivation

Together with Paić in Kučine, near Šibenik, Cukrov began cultivating vegetables and 60 olive trees on 2.5 hectares of land owned by his son. The two soon planted 300 more olive trees, mainly local olive oil varieties, some of which had not yet reached full maturity.

The planting was preceded by a soil analysis at the Institute for Adriatic Cultures and Karst Reclamation. The soil proved to be suitable for all Mediterranean crops, including olive trees. “We respect the recommendations of experts and implement all ecological and agrotechnical measures, from pruning, fertilization, and protection to timely harvesting and processing of freshly picked fruit,” said Paić. He and Nikica have received numerous awards for their oils, but this year’s Silver Award at NYIOOC is special. His Brunela blend, made from fruit of the indigenous varieties Oblica, Levantinka, Lastovka, and Krvavica, received very positive reviews from the NYIOOC jury. “The award at the world’s largest competition is a confirmation of quality, but also an additional incentive to continue producing even better extra virgin olive oil,” said Cukrov and Paić.

The couple makes no secret of the fact that everything, from the quality of the soil to the geographical location of the groves, helps them achieve high quality. The two are currently exploring the possibility of installing an irrigation system in their orchards. “We are consulting with experts about what is best for our olive trees: drip or sprinkler irrigation,” they said.

They know that without irrigation, especially in the arid areas of Dalmatia, there is no successful olive cultivation. Dalmatia has a centuries-old olive-growing tradition but is feeling the effects of climate change. “We can’t influence it, but we can adapt to it,” said Cukrov. He and Vjeran are particularly pleased that young people are increasingly interested in cultivating olive trees, restoring abandoned land, and planting new forests.

A true renaissance of olive growing is taking place in Dalmatia, as evidenced by the considerable number of awards received each year by producers from Croatia’s southern region in national and international quality competitions. Producers from Croatia, which has a population of nearly four million people, took fourth place at the 2023 NYIOOC with 53 awards out of 128 entries.

Winners will continue to be announced until April. Cukrov and Paić hope that more Croatian extra virgin olive oils will be recognized. They proudly point out that Croatian olive growers and footballersu are among the best in the world.